🔗 Share this article

When compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their small shop achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary triumph.